Champagne Benoit Lahaye, Blanc de Noirs

Benoit Lahaye is one of a tiny handful of Champagne growers who still plows his vineyards with a horse, part of a biodynamic conviction that has run deep since the 1990s in his Grand Cru village of Bouzy. This Blanc de Noirs is 100% Pinot Noir, a white Champagne made entirely from black grapes, bottled unfiltered and dosed barely at all. Farming this carefully lets him pick genuinely ripe fruit, so the wine stays pure and low-dosage without ever turning austere. It's fuller-bodied and structured but taut and energetic, with real length. Production is tiny and beloved in France, so very little crosses the Atlantic.