2023 Thurnhof St. Magdalener

Appearances by Andreas Berger's wines are too rare in our home state. His farm is small, four hectares (there are four hectares of apples, too) and sometimes we miss our chance to buy. On a massive south-facing slope overlooking Bolzano, Thurnhof makes pitch perfect St. Magdelener/Sta. Maddalena. Translucent cherry color, spicy raspberry and tart strawberry flavor, more complex than a gulpable red should be, while remaining perfectly refreshing. Ninety percent Schiava/Vernatsch, 10% Lagrein, more or less.