2023 Selbach-Oster Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr "Ur" alte Reben MCM

The “sundial” of Zeltingen is the steepest of the three sites in the village and has the poorest soils. Vines here are rooted directly into Devonian slate. The vineyard has different subsections, including Kakert, the slate terraces with 120 year old vines that the Uralte Reben bottling comes from as well as Rotlay has the rockiest, shallowest and therefore driest soil as can be seen by the massive cliffs that hang over the vineyard and partially to its side. The Ur-Alte Reben (“Ultra old vines”) were planted around 1900, hence the Roman numerals “MCM” on the label. These 120 year old vines produce between one and two fuders each year and the quality here is undeniable. This is one of thee crown jewels of the Feinherb category.

JS 98 jamessuckling.com, August 2024

What an incredible interplay of golden fruit aromas and fantastic spicy complexity this enormously concentrated and creamy Mosel riesling has. Not analytically dry, but with spot-on balance, and everything is perfectly integrated on the medium-bodied palate. An extremely long, caressing finish makes you forget all your troubles. Ur alt means very old in German, and this wine comes from this producer’s oldest vines, planted pre-1910. Drink or hold.